This week I am sharing images on the @revistagooutside
account of Bruce Normand and @marcosncosta
's alpine adventures in China over the past few years. The pair is currently headed to Pakistan with their sights set on Gasherbrum IV. Check @marcosncosta
account for current updates.
After ice cragging in Shuangqiaogou and climbing Haizi Shan (5820m) as a warmup in early February 2014, Normand and Costa then ventured into the Minya Konka range. Working mainly off of Japanese explorer and photographer Tomatsu Nakamura’s maps and descriptions, Normand had his eyes on several unclimbed 6000m peaks in southern part of the range. The pair approached for 2 days, establishing camp at 5000 meters, then attempted an ascent of Unnamed Peak 6460 meters on the third day but were turned back due to high winds. After moving camp higher to 5600 meters a day later, on the fourth day of the trip Normand and Costa followed the southwest ridge on 50 degree alpine ice to just below the summit, where they roped up for a short AI4 pitch to reach the summit. In the image, the pair is soloing moderate alpine ice ca. 6000m on summit day. .
Based on Nakamura’s maps, initially Normand thought we had made the first ascent of Mt Tai Shan West, but later determined that it was an Unnamed Peak 6460m that we had climbed, not shown on the existing map. Normand later learned that Tai Shan is a peak further south along the ridgeline which had been referred to as Jinyin, corroborated by the Swiss team who had climbed the peak in 1981.
Check the full feature on Normand and Costa's story, written by Michael Levy, @odm_2.0
, in the current issue of Go Outside Mag.
#sichuan #alpinist #winter #cold